PARIS FASHION WEEK SEPT. 2017
INTERVIEW WITH NACO PARIS : ART IS RESISTANCE !
If you’re looking for fashion outsiders, the ones doing special things you might not have hear of, Naco Paris is the first place to take a look. The fashion designer/artist/performer behind Naco, enjoys a worldwide reputation of going against the mainstream fashion flow for over 15 years. After tailor training, he studied at LISAA, Fine Art, and in 2001 Naco Paris label came to birth. What makes Naco’s DNA so unique: a modern and minimalist aesthetic with provocative punk attitude on unisex garments. This anarchist inspired conceptual artist, who nicknamed himself «the only designer who doesn’t like fashion», managed to install his own vision, build customer loyalty pretty fast. In Japan his collections became almost instantly cult while having for leitmotiv denouncing the obsession of consumption caused by luxury industry. We pictured that notably with the world famous shopper bag «Karl Who?» , worn by Karl Lagerfeld himself, with some kind of self-mockery for once : not bad !
Interview with a true fashion’s Robin Hood.
You stopped to be part of the official PFW calendar a few years ago : let us know what was the decision process that made you do this radical move for a fashion designer?
Since my first collection in 2001 I am very underground in every way, and I'm still very underground ( and certainly more radical now .... ) in every way : the way I work, the way I design, the way I show my collection, the way I sell it and I realised few seasons ago that I do not need the official calendar support as I'm doing my own things on my side and I don’t feel the need anymore to be associated with the big brand ( big fashion houses and groups ) as my work, my target and even myself are at the opposite of them ... so once I realised this, I realised I have my own audience, it’s quite "underground", anyway we call that, but it is the way I want to create and show my work !
How do you feel about all the fuss around fashion weeks, not Paris only, but all these FW everywhere, at anytime of the year?
Seriously I’m feeling : not concerned ! They are doing a kind of "business" that I really don't understand a word ! You know I try to dedicate my entire life to creation so it is totally another energy , the total opposite dimension ! And its absolutly at the image of the actual clothes consumption : too much !!!
Then sometimes some of these organisations contact me to invite me to show my work , I'm always very flattered but I decline most of the times because they are not enough flexible to go the way I want to show my creations ( as performances, or with my very well-known habit of wild casting models ) but sometimes, I'm able to accept the offer if they understand the concept, most of the time I can feel it from the first contact and I listen to my heart !
We know that you know well about people who wears Naco, tell us about them, what do they find in Naco they couldn’t find with somebody else?
I think they really looking for something different and unique and the NACO-PARIS pieces are uniques and different as they are always hand-painted and hand printed in my own studio in France ! That's make all the difference with all other big brands ! You know I put all my heart and all my soul in these pieces and this is absolutely not the same energy than when the pieces are just out of a big factory, my clients can feel and understand that, it’s why they come back ! And at least, and to talk about fashion : they love this mix of elegant streetwear , NACO-PARIS it’s young and chic and easy to wear ! As I always say : it’s ready to wear that you just need to be ready to wear :) !
Who the heck is Mme Paris?
She is my very assumed feminine and glamorous side ! it’s a fictional character I created 25 years ago when I was a bored punk teenage in northern french countryside, I needed to be an another one to use the codes and the rules of what life was ready to give me ! And she helped me to open doors I wasn't supposed to open ! And today she still bring me in many adventures : she is a long date legendary nightlife figure and a art gallery performer and she became in the last 4 years an atypical model (represented by Wanted Models Paris ) being a star in the awarded french UBER campaign : "Uberdumat" ... or a muse for photographers as Oliviero Toscani who asked her to be a bride in black at the St Germain des Près church or for the photographer Laura-Marie Cieplik for the Haute-Couture Special of L'OFFICIEL last year ! So Madame Paris she definitely bring me somewhere I would be not able to go alone !
Helmut Newton once said that to be a good photographer you should have a pretty good sense of humor : is that advice should be extended to fashion designers too? Is corporatization made fashion lost it’s sense of humor?
I don't know ... I think fashion it’s a bit different because at one point someone have to buy it and wear it so it can be (a bit) funny but not "too much" . I think fashion it’s all about "dosage" and balance ... I put a lot of humor in my collections (sometimes cynical humor I agree !) but also a good dose of darkness and always elegance so I always have to find the perfect balance! And at last it’s (just) a piece of clothe so ....