Surfer at Sunset – Seminyak Beach, Seminyak, Bali, Indonesia - January 2016
A surfer walks home as the sun sets in the Indian Ocean.
There is something almost spiritual and reverent about surfing and people that surf. At first, all we see is a balancing act or an extreme sport. Then we realize it is more than just that: it is a lesson in respect and understanding of the vast power of the ocean. Every surfer has had their moment stuck under a crashing wave, desperate to take a breath. But they’ve also had moments of control over the rushing force of a swell, the wave moving them along the coast, cradling them, giving them the opportunity to dance or fly along its crest. The real magic of it comes from the way both moments are remembered and loved equally.
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