PARIS FASHION WEEK
INTERVIEW WITH CLINIQUE VESTIMENTAIRE : FASHION FRENCH DOCTORS
Fashion can also be about progress and technology, Jeanne Vicerial proves it with the clever label Clinique Vestimentaire. After studying textile at the Ensad Paris she is SACRe Ph.D candidate ENSAD lab P.S.L Research University Paris. A thesis, named “A tailor-made body”, offer an alternative to contemporary industrial constraints and new garment production. It is all about a full understanding of the human body which permits to rethink the construction of clothes. Design comes from the muscles weaves and pattern are created from the human anatomy. As result : a garment like a new wearable skin which expose the internal construction of the body. Her technique which required no sewing machine, is based on the recycling of threads and there is absolutely no loss of fabrics. For now it’s an handcraft process, but Jeanne is working on it’s evolution in using 3D printers.
Clinique Vestimentaire : what brought you to this very strong and meaningful name ? How did you get the idea ?
The name of Clinique vestimentaire came from the report that the fashion industry became “sick” following the example of Li Edelkoort . It was important to reconsider the clothing production differently and propose an alternative concept in the contemporary textile industry.
You are both designing and researching, what is the most important part to you ?
Design, research and innovation are inseparable for us. We work as much on the design as on the innovation. The research leans on the experiment of the designer. This is why we work in binomial with Jennifer Chambaret (designer) and I (SACRe Ph.D. Candidate EnsAD_lab—PSL Research University, Paris).
How did you present your creations ?
Do you have collections or seasons or do you create piece after piece ?
Our creations are presented in many ways. We can present our projects in seminars dedicated to the innovation as soon to Helsinki at the University of Aalto (October) or before in London (last September) or in Sweden (last June). We are preparing a new collection of “ready-to-wear clothing” women for January, this one mixes completely the innovation and the more classic design. www.cliniquevestimentaire.com—It is true that doesn’t answer us the calendar of the fashion, our collections take life to move forward of our concepts and our searches, we don’t wish to put under stress to make our works in a date been imperative by the industry. However if we are ready we are happy to present for these very stimulating weeks.
Your designs are most of the time black, dark blue, it’s mainly dark colors, do you avoid colors for certain reasons?
Working on the lines is essential just as working on material, that’s why we develop most of our own textiles (weaving/dye). Today we are using the thread of multiple manners, mixing stitch and weaving. These original materials give vibrations to the neutrality of our colored range. Our clothes suggest the body construction .
3D printing is just starting to used in the fashion industry, and you are orienting your research on to that kind of production. Do you think 3D printing will deeply change fashion, the world in the future? Or is it just a geek fantasy?
This experimental method is done exclusively by hand without the use of a sewing machine. This method is currently artisanal, the objective is to develop a machine capable of sewing customized clothing based on a 3D scan of the body. Today, I’m continuing this research for my PhD in fashion textiles research alongside engineers who have the capability to develop this new technology. The development of this method both eliminates textiles waste and proposes a different form of industrial customized clothing production. I don’t think that is simply geek here we try to eliminate the falls. However the current attraction for the technology make a production of wearable little gadgets. Using technology to say that it is technological is not a good solution .”