I try to let my designs embody an idea, shaped into a form that clashes two worlds. On one hand it’s clothing that is well crafted, and on the other, it brings a statement that should raise questions with the audience about how they make their decisions in buying clothes. They cannot just be beautiful pieces of clothing, they have to give the viewer something to think about.
For this collection I looked atthe ‘autarkic egos’ of people. The autarkic ego is a term invented by philosopher Ayn Rand. She statesthat someone who holds an idea doesn’t change that to please other people. It’s a person who makeshis own rational choices and thinks before he acts. With my collectionI wanted to transform opinions people have towards consumption. I wanted to create my own resistance army of aggressive women that embody this idea. They choose for themselves and willnot yield their ideas to anybody.
At the start of my design process I cut up a lot of army clothing and rearranged it in a new order to show the ridiculousness of how fashion makes clothing that’s rather impractical to wear. I chose army clothing for multiple reasons, but mostly because army clothing is practical and by cutting it up the practical side gets lost. From that point on, I wanted to work with patterns that save fabric in cutting, but because of that you lose even more fabric in a piece of clothing. Normally making patterns for garments produces a lot of wasted fabric, in my collection I instead create patterns that use the whole width of the fabric, which doesnot allow for waste. However,the design keeps all the lost fabric on the body, so in the end much more fabric is used compared to a conventional way of construction. This could trigger the audience to question their views on overconsumption in fashion.
Maarten Van Mulken
Photography: Sem Shayne
Make-up: Dominique Cordaro