This season unites a variety of source inspirations including pioneering American photographer Saul Leiter and Italian painter Father Constantino Ruggeri, an innovator in sacred art. But it is also built on very personal memories - an intimate reimagining of our own archives and previous collections, straddling and uniting London and Paris.
A chance to revisit and reframe the most poignant pieces, it’s been a collection in development through the course of a year. Process and experimentation have been an
inspiration in itself, a reflection of our desire to cherish those items with most personal longlasting resonance – allowing private motifs to become public luxuries.
This collection isn’t about showing off; it’s about creating a dialogue with the women (and men) who wear it. The story lies in the details, a narrative of traditional skills blended with modern techniques, interpreted by the models and other creatives wearing the collection - in this instance also writers, dancers and artists, epitomising depth of experience. The collection is never more important than the individuals, their identity and their creativity.
As ever, the workmanship of the ultra-skilled craftspeople involved in the collection has been vital. Hand embroidery, ultra-feminine hand-dyed silk couture fringing and unique knotting techniques – all made by small-scale English manufacturers - individualise every garment. Striving towards sustai ability, the tailoring is also crafted in England via traditional makers who took up the challenge to update their classic, sharp silhouettes with new techniques, materials and cuts that transcend conventional modes of masculine and feminine. Highly technical cocooning sits over sharp tailoring, while delicate silk chiffon refines formal shirts and masculine cut pants.
Our show production, too, is driven by a desire to simplify and reset with tenderness; we’ve used Saint Cyprians church in its most natural state,
pushing back on a culture of waste.
To honour this season’s focus on recasting heritage we are also extremely privileged to collaborate with the Italian jewellery Brand BVLGARI, loaning an exclusive selection of creations from its Heritage Collection - an extensive collection of archival jewellery dating back to the brand’s founding more than 130 years ago. Pieces in this collection have been worn by style and cultural icons including as Andy Warhol, Audrey Hepburn, Anita Ekberg, and Elizabeth Taylor, among others.
Each comes with its own legacy, ready to be reimagined again in a luxurious, less formal reality.